![]() ![]() Just used an extra piece of the #4 with white tape to identify it. He also said I didn't need to float the neutral, but I did anyway. ) my sub panel, I was told by one electrician to use 2/3 Romex and float the neutral to the main panel.īut I had trouble finding this size Romex, so I ask another electrician and he said 4/3 Romex is what the city required from a meter can to a main panel, so I could easily use it for a 100a sub panel. I was thinking of going with the 100A breaker, noting that during 'heavy use' (the first party in the basement showing off the theater ) I'd like to avoid cranking up the amps(pun intended ) and ending up with a flipped 60A breaker. I must admit that I have not determined the wire size required for the 100A breaker though. 90 (EMT Conduit) degree bend, so I believe pulling the wires to the sub-panel would be reasonably easy. I could easily install the sub-panel in the adjacent studbay to the main panel. I am not an electrician, nor do I play one on tv. should you decide to accept my advice, this message will self-destruct, etc. If it were a straight run I would go with the 100A.ĭisclaimer- informational purposes only. If it were a real bear, I would go with 60A just for ease of installation (smaller gauge wire- typ. If it were my decision (assuming the main breaker can handle the load), I would base it on how hard it would be to run the wire. This is typically a three-wire cable with three insulated conductors plus a bare copper ground wire. On the other hand, 100A would be handy for the future. When an electrician installs a subpanel, the usual process is to first run a feeder cable from the main panel to the subpanel. Given that, I can't imagine what you are describing will draw more than a 60A breaker could handle. In that case, you would really have to run another main panel, which would require a new meter pan. However, if your house is drawing 150A right now, using either will trip your main before you trip the breaker for the subpanel. You could use either the 100A or 60A breaker. ![]() The size of the breaker should be based on the load imposed, not the total of the ratings of each circuit breaker. I understand that another full panel would be better, but since I already have these parts, I would like to know if I can legitimately install the 100 amp breaker to supply the sub-panel for the basement, noting the existing loads (3 AC units, indoor Pool, stove, etc)? I have a 60 Amp and a 100 Amp 240V breaker that was also left by the builder that I can use in the empty double slot of the main panel to supply the sub-panel. Two, 20 Amp Lighting circuits for Game room.I need 12-13 Slots in a Sub-panel for the basement (with theater, bath, game room, etc.) and the builder left me a HomeLine Load Center (uninstalled, originally intended for the pool pumps), model HOMC12UC- 12 slot unit. 2 slots currently open (one over the other).Main Panel - Homeline Load Center HOMC4UCĢ00 Amp main breaker (40 Slots) supporting: Can someone provide the guidelines or reference material regarding the typical limits of a main breaker panel? I’ve got a 40 slot Load Center with 38 slots taken as follows: ![]()
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